The Nicois [a person or persons from Nice, France] often combine anchovies and tuna fish in the same salad, allows former Nice mayor Jacques Mdecin in his book Cuisine Nicoise, although, he adds, traditionally this was never done, tuna fish being very expensive and reserved for special occasions, so the cheaper anchovies filled the bill. (Root does not even mention tuna fish as a possibility.) In any case, in France, even today, the tuna would rarely, if ever, be a grilled plank of sushi-grade tuna with a cold center
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